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27 Sep 2016, 00:38

I was inspired by @sircallen to finally write a guide. It ended up being quite a bit longer than I had at first intended, so it's currently incomplete. I don't have the motivation to finish it all at once at the moment, so I figured I'd just post what I have so far and finish the rest over the course of the week, probably like 1 section a day or something.

You'll have to forgive me for some of the long-winded explanations in the introduction. This is a rough draft, and I stole a lot of it from a larger GoodSpeed-esque guide I had tried to write at some point earlier this summer (which I quickly gave up on, because it takes too long to go into detail on everything, and I can't be bothered to be concise), so parts of it may also be a bit out of date with what I currently think. I will likely edit parts of it in the future too.

Contents
1.0 - Introduction
1.1 - Deck
2.1 - Crates
2.2 - Discovery Age Planning
3.1 - Basic FF and Semi-FF Builds*
3.2 - Basic Colonial Builds*
4.0 - Match-up Descriptions (RE & EP)*

* = Incomplete

1.0 - Introduction
Spoiler


Strengths
Unlike Germany's most comparable counterpart, France, whose strength relies on them being above-average at nearly everything while excelling at none, Germany does a few things really well while still remaining average or even below-average at others. The things they do well in, however, they usually do far better than any other civ.

Spoiler


Weaknesses
Spoiler


1.1 - Deck

Image

This is the deck I use in the majority of my games. The only one I would consider swapping around is Heavy Infantry Hitpoints in age 2 for something like 5 uhlan, 700f, or 2 caravels, and maybe 1000c for a frigate or 5 dopps depending on the matchup. But for the most part these cards aren't really interchangeable.

You can also swap out 2 heavy cannons for an age 1 or age 4 card of your choice. Whichever card you choose is honestly not likely to see the light of day, however, so it doesn't really matter much.

2.1 - Crates

Germany has 5 possible crate spawns, 3 with 300f and 2 with 200f. You have some options depending on which it is.

In general the rule of thumb is to get either a TP or a market from your starting crates if possible.

300f 200w - Ideal crate spawn. Build a TP and move all 3 SWs to wood until you have wood for your house, then to food.
300f 100w - Market start usually, unless early wood/food treasures help you grab a TP. Can chop 200w for a TP in some matchups, but risks aging later.
300f 100w 100c - Same as above.
200f 200w - TP start. Perfect vill spread is 1 SW to food, 2 to wood. 1st vill goes to food. When the 2nd vill is about to pop move 1 of the 2 wood SWs to wood and the new vill to wood. You should get wood for your house without idle time and just in time for your shipment.
200f 100w 100c - Worst possible start. Market start if possible, but consider waiting until transition.

In some situations you may want to consider delaying your age up (18 pop instead of 17 pop) and chopping 200w for an early TP at the beginning of the game. For some semi and naked FF builds this is worth it, as the extra XP will really help with your early-mid Fortress powerspike. This is mostly matchup dependent, as there are some matchups (Russia, Otto) where you simply can't afford to age late.

2.2 - Discovery Age Planning
Spoiler


3.1 - Basic FF and Semi-FF Builds
**Special cases are matchups where the build may be effective but needs to be adapted into a different build depending on the information acquired by scouting.

Uhlan Semi-FF
Effective Against: France, British, China, German, Port, Dutch
Weak Against: India (Forward Agra), Aztec, Sioux
Acceptable Against: Japan, Spain
**Special Cases: Otto, Russia, Iroquois, India (In-Base Wonder)

Card Order(s):
(1)
3SW (Age 2)
700w (Age 2)
700c (Age 2)
Military/Mercenary Units or 1000w (Age 3)

(2)
700w (Age 2)
3SW (Age 2)
700c (Age 2)
Military/Mercenary Units or 1000w (Age 3)

(3)
3SW (Age 2)
700c (Age 2)
Military Units or 1000w (Age 3)

This is arguably Germany's bread-and-butter build in almost all situations. It applies a lot of raiding pressure early on while still reaching Fortress at a reasonable time with a shipment ready and an adequate army to defend timings. It's also relatively easy to adapt into a more Colonial-focused build if needed.

Age 1
- Age with 17-18 villager population and the Quartermaster (400w) politician

Transition
- Switch 5 SW and 2-3 settlers to wood, and gather enough resources to build either your market or TP or both (depending on what you got at the beginning of the game), and Hunting Dogs + Placer Mines.
- Depending on the matchup and which variation of the build you wish to do, you may choose to gather anywhere from 25 to 325 additional wood before switching your wood vills to coin. For variations (2) and (3) you should generally only gather between 25-125w, and never more. For variation (1) 225-325w is sometimes necessary if you don't get a TP start, or for whatever reason don't have a TP yet. It will allow you to continue training Uhlans without getting housed before you get your 700w, but you will need to delay your first batch of Uhlans by 10-15 seconds in order to get a full batch.

Age 2
- With your 400w get Steel Traps, a stable, and a house—or 2 houses, if you want to wait until 700w for Steel Traps.



Dopp/Uhlan Aggression/Semi-FF
Effective Against: German
Weak Against: India
Acceptable Against: France, British, China, Dutch, Spain
*Special Cases: Everything else

Card Order:
700w (Age 2)
700c (Age 2)
3SW (Age 2)
2SW or 600c or Nothing (Age 2)
9 Black Riders or Military Units (Age 3)

This is basically the build you should only use in the German mirror, but it can work in other matchups—sometimes. The general idea of the build is to maximize unit production in very early Colonial—as Germany can spend the 700w and 700c all at once with a big batch of Dopps and Uhlans—and surprise and overwhelm an opponent who may have sent vills with a larger mass and force them to commit more of their time and resources into Colonial play (in order to defend), at which point you age.

3 SW 700w Fast Fortress
Effective Against: China, Japan, British, France, India (In-Base Wonder), Spain
Weak Against: India (Forward Agra), Sioux, Aztec, Iroquois, Russia, German, Dutch
Acceptable Against: Port
**Special Cases: Otto, Japan (Club Rush), All-in Aggression

The basic idea behind this build is to get to the Fortress Age relatively quickly with all of your necessary infrastructure established backed by a solid economy. The major advantage to this build over semi-FF builds is that you don't need to use the 700c shipment to age, which leaves you with an extra card to use on a much more valuable Age 3 shipment. This build is most effective against civs that tend to play passively or semi-FF as it allows you to still harass and scout with your 2-4 shipment Uhlans, or defend reasonably well against cavalry raids or cavalry timings with explorer/TC fire/minutemen to back up the Uhlans.

Basic Card Order:
3 SW (Age 2)
700w (Age2 )
Military/Mercenary Shipments or 1000w in any order (Age 3)

Age 1
Depending on your crate start you usually want to try to get an early TP even if you have to force it by chopping 200w and delaying your age up slightly. Age with 18 vills if you have to, this will barely slow your Fortress time down as you will not be waiting for crates to age, and the extra villager in transition will help acquire these resources.

Ensuring you have an early TP regardless of the crate start will net you more shipments in early Fortress—when you are strongest—and also free up your explorer in transition to Colonial to scout for aggressive builds (which you are particularly weak to with this build compared to other builds) and allow you to adapt out of this build into Colonial play or a semi-FF if need be.

- Place first house defensively, somewhere difficult to pressure.
- Avoid TC idle time, age with 17-18 villager population and the Quartermaster (400w) politician.

Transition
- Once aging, switch 5 SW and 1-2 settlers to wood and get a market + hunting dogs. Place market in front of your base to shield hunts or mines.
- Switch 5 SW and 1-2 settlers to coin and begin gathering to reach Fortress.
- Make active use of your explorer to deduce your opponent's plan.

Age 2
*Special Cases: at this point in the build you may still choose to adapt into a safer or more defensive build order. If you've scouted your opponent doing something aggressive with a forward base or something similarly troublesome, you may choose to buy wood in order to place either a stable or a rax and adapt into an Uhlan semi or Xbow/Pike defense. This does not hurt your economy as buying wood is efficient until ~130 gold per 100 wood, but it does deplete your gold mines more quickly than it otherwise would have.

- Send 3 SW
- Use 400w for Steel Traps + Placer Mines and 2 houses
- Pay close attention to your villager distribution. Try to arrange it so that you hit 1200f and 1000c at the same time.
- Send 700w. Do not gather wood crates until you start aging unless you plan on building a 2nd TP with—which you should almost never do unless you can get away with sending 1000w as your first card in Fortress.
- Use Uhlans to scout/harass, but try not to lose them. It's unlikely you'll be able to do any damage with only 2-4 Uhlans against a skilled opponent, instead just focus on keeping your opponent in his base and buying yourself time to age safely.
- Age to Fortress with the Exiled Prince (fast age).

Transition
- Gather your 700w. If you're anticipating some kind of push from your opponent, try to build your stable/rax relatively defensively, and use your houses to create a shield for any skirms or WW you train in early Fortress. Otherwise, build the rax/stable in front of your base for better army reinforcement in mid-Fortress.
- Alternatively, you may also choose to switch most of your vills to coin and forego the stable until later, and send Black Riders as your first shipment in Fortress.
- If you're anticipating a push, research Great Coat (35% villager hitpoints) and be ready to use your SWs to to tank in any fights if you need to. Be careful not to lose them though!
- Research Gang Saw and switch 3-6 villager population to wood for housing throughout Fortress (unless you plan to send 1000w early).

Age 3
You should reach Fortress relatively comfortably anywhere between 7:40 - 8:40...ish. From here you want to mass primarily Skirm/Uhlan with a few WW if necessary—keep in mind there are always exceptions, make WW or ship BR if you need to. You usually only want to send unit shipments, but 1000w can give you a strong mid-game in exchange for slowing down your early Fortress. DO NOT use your 1000w for a 2nd TC. Ever. There are very very few situations where a 2nd TC will actually pay off for Germany. Stagecoach TPs, on the other hand, feel free to grab those if you feel you can defend them.

Notes: There is a slightly greedier version of this build you can do, but it's far less adaptable and rarely worth it, but if you are interested in trying it out you can also age with The Philosopher Prince (500f) to Colonial in order to reach Fortress more quickly, and ship 3 SW 1000w as your first 2 cards, this will net you a few hundred extra resources, but also leave you more open to raids and early aggression or timing pushes.

3.2 - Basic Colonial builds

Timing Push
Effective Against: Sioux
Weak Against: India, Port, German, Iroquois(?)
Acceptable Against: China, France, British, Japan, Aztec, Spain(?), Russia, Dutch
*Special Cases: Otto

(?) = I haven't done the build enough in that matchup to know for certain how effective it is.

Card Order:
3 SW
700w
8 Xbow
600w or 700c

Defensive Timing
Effective Against: Russia, Aztec
Weak Against: Semi-FFs
Acceptable Against: Forward bases in general
*Special Cases: Otto

Card Order
8 Xbow
700w
700c
3 Dopp, 5 Uhlan, 600c, or 3SW

4.0 - Match-ups
Aztec
Spoiler


British
Spoiler


China
Spoiler


Dutch
Spoiler


France
Spoiler


German
Spoiler


India
Spoiler


Iroquois
Spoiler


Japan
Spoiler


Ottoman
Spoiler


Portuguese
Spoiler


Russia
Spoiler


Sioux
Spoiler


Spain
Spoiler
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Canada _NiceKING_
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27 Sep 2016, 00:42

Looks awesome! GJ
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27 Sep 2016, 01:06

Happy Birthday, Mitoe! :lol:
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27 Sep 2016, 01:20

does 200f 100w start really exist? in my memory german has "200f 100w 1random", and sometimes the map will give you an extra food crate (excluding deccan caro etc). so the poorest start should be 300f100w, not 200f100w.
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27 Sep 2016, 01:22

Couprider wrote:does 200f 100w start really exist? in my memory german has "200f 100w 1random", and sometimes the map will give you an extra food crate (excluding deccan caro etc). so the poorest start should be 300f100w, not 200f100w.

You are correct actually, that was an oversight on my part. However, I would say the worst possible start in that case is 200f 100w 100c, not 300f 100w.
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27 Sep 2016, 07:24

I am quite sure Germans wins vs Otto on RE Patch
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27 Sep 2016, 08:39

DaRkNiTe1698 wrote:I am quite sure Germans wins vs Otto on RE Patch


Objectively they do not, just look at the stats. Otto can weaken Germany so much early on that they can't get a good fortress in my experience.
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27 Sep 2016, 09:03

I honestly think Brits win Germans
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27 Sep 2016, 09:04

DaRkNiTe1698 wrote:I am quite sure Germans wins vs Otto on RE Patch



No way :uglylol:
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27 Sep 2016, 09:21

yoqpasa wrote:I honestly think Brits win Germans

Shouldnt brit struggle vs a good fortress timing on a tp map?
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27 Sep 2016, 09:34

Gichtenlord wrote:
yoqpasa wrote:I honestly think Brits win Germans

Shouldnt brit struggle vs a good fortress timing on a tp map?


British timing comes faster. Siege houses, tp and idle vills
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27 Sep 2016, 11:03

now i'd like to see your odds for germany on Ep ...Kappa
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27 Sep 2016, 11:08

German can hold a rush, they can raid effectively because maps on RE are bad, they can raid a lot actually. Mammelukes are the biggest problems but you can send black riders I guess. About abus, German has got many uhlans to send. Anyway this is a tough MU for both sides and it's pretty close I'd say. This is my opinion at least
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27 Sep 2016, 12:14

im curious if we are talkign about RE balance and RE maps or RE balance and EP maps. Because obviously this would influence balance greatly. Then there would also be the case that balance shifts significantly on water maps compared to land maps. For exmaple Germany should rape Port on RE balance and RE maps. They should still win with relative ease on EP maps, however on water maps a good Port water boom should be quite hard to handle for germany, making it Port favoured imo.
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27 Sep 2016, 12:16

Mitoe wrote:
Couprider wrote:does 200f 100w start really exist? in my memory german has "200f 100w 1random", and sometimes the map will give you an extra food crate (excluding deccan caro etc). so the poorest start should be 300f100w, not 200f100w.

You are correct actually, that was an oversight on my part. However, I would say the worst possible start in that case is 200f 100w 100c, not 300f 100w.

why? with 200f100w100g start i need 75g 50w to build a market and go hunting dog. with 300f100w i have to go age 2 without building anything, or build a market+hunting dog but age up with 18p (and reach colonial age at 5:00 or even later).
It's already a war, and I have nothing to lose.
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30 Sep 2016, 13:39

hi it's weekend now and we're waiting for this!
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30 Sep 2016, 18:57

hype bump
My Tips of the Day and COMPSTOMP threads! Check out the ESOC Strategy Wall! :flowers:
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05 Oct 2016, 17:36

is germantown farmers ever used in supremacy? it lets you replenish dead settler wagons
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05 Oct 2016, 17:43

Kaiserklein wrote:
jamesmp98 wrote:I'm surprised Germantown Farmers has not ben mentioned. I was always told that was the German card to have.

In team you can use it, in 1v1 certainly not. It could be useful 1 game out of 1000, but you really need age 3 slots badly. That's the core of your build as germany, since you almost always age to fortress quite early.
If you could afford eco cards in age 3 anyway, you would put royal mint first, then refrigeration. German townfarmers would come very far behind that.

Even in 2v2 I wouldn't use it. Though in 3v3, you can use it sometimes.

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05 Oct 2016, 19:47

DaRkNiTe1698 wrote:I am quite sure Germans wins vs Otto on RE Patch

No

yoqpasa wrote:I honestly think Brits win Germans

I think it was quite close in the other EP (=RE brits and germany on EP maps). Germany probably won by a bit. On the current EP it's definitely brit favoured though.

Couprider wrote:
Mitoe wrote:You are correct actually, that was an oversight on my part. However, I would say the worst possible start in that case is 200f 100w 100c, not 300f 100w.

why? with 200f100w100g start i need 75g 50w to build a market and go hunting dog. with 300f100w i have to go age 2 without building anything, or build a market+hunting dog but age up with 18p (and reach colonial age at 5:00 or even later).

Having only 200f hurts a lot, it means you have to actually gather food early on, instead of focusing on getting your market/TP up. Without good treasures, 200f 100g 100w is kinda a nightmare because of that, since you get hunt dogs really late, and you can't get a TP. 300f 100w at least lets you get a TP if you want (even though you'll be most likely to age late), or you can also age up 17 idleless, or build a market if you get a couple treasures (barely worse for market than 200f 100g 100w start).
tl;dr : having 300f is just much better because it's smoother.

Anyway, nice guide Mitoe ! I especially like the crates starts detail.
I just think your estimations for RE germany match ups is kinda optimistic though. Water maps hurt them a lot (and god knows in RE qs you get a lot of water maps), and low resources map (which ofc happen a lot too) tend to make civs like india, aztecs... much stronger, and I doubt germany wins in that case. I agree with your estimations if it's RE balance on EP maps though.
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05 Oct 2016, 21:33

Well I had actually finished a lot of this, but apparently the edits didn't go through when I hit submit :( So I'll have to rewrite it...

Think I'll have to take a break before going back to rewrite all that *sigh*

noissance wrote:is germantown farmers ever used in supremacy? it lets you replenish dead settler wagons

Not really. There's not much point in replenishing your settler wagons when you could just send 1000w and make 2 TCs instead. Settler Wagons are not really anymore valuable than 2 Settlers and they cost more, and shipping that card doesn't actually give you any value in terms of resources, so it's kind of just useless in supremacy.

kaiserklein wrote:I just think your estimations for RE germany match ups is kinda optimistic though. Water maps hurt them a lot (and god knows in RE qs you get a lot of water maps), and low resources map (which ofc happen a lot too) tend to make civs like india, aztecs... much stronger, and I doubt germany wins in that case. I agree with your estimations if it's RE balance on EP maps though.

It was kind of for EP maps I guess, but honestly I don't think it changes that much on MOST RE maps. Water is definitely beatable for Ger, and you don't need a lot of food to be strong. Not to mention your raids are more effective on low-resource maps which helps compensate a bit.

I think Germany has a lot of the tools to compensate in low-resource environments I guess. All they really need to be strong is a TP and access to 1-2 hunts and gold mines (not necessarily in their base, but close enough that an early fortress power spike will take control of them). They win most games before they get to use their 3rd mine on these sorts of maps because the opponent is forced out of their base quite early too, and the early fortress fights favour Germany pretty heavily on RE patch IMO.
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05 Oct 2016, 21:56

Mitoe wrote:Well I had actually finished a lot of this, but apparently the edits didn't go through when I hit submit :( So I'll have to rewrite it...

Think I'll have to take a break before going back to rewrite all that *sigh*


noissance wrote:is germantown farmers ever used in supremacy? it lets you replenish dead settler wagons

Not really. There's not much point in replenishing your settler wagons when you could just send 1000w and make 2 TCs instead. Settler Wagons are not really anymore valuable than 2 Settlers and they cost more, and shipping that card doesn't actually give you any value in terms of resources, so it's kind of just useless in supremacy.

kaiserklein wrote:I just think your estimations for RE germany match ups is kinda optimistic though. Water maps hurt them a lot (and god knows in RE qs you get a lot of water maps), and low resources map (which ofc happen a lot too) tend to make civs like india, aztecs... much stronger, and I doubt germany wins in that case. I agree with your estimations if it's RE balance on EP maps though.

It was kind of for EP maps I guess, but honestly I don't think it changes that much on MOST RE maps. Water is definitely beatable for Ger, and you don't need a lot of food to be strong. Not to mention your raids are more effective on low-resource maps which helps compensate a bit.

I think Germany has a lot of the tools to compensate in low-resource environments I guess. All they really need to be strong is a TP and access to 1-2 hunts and gold mines (not necessarily in their base, but close enough that an early fortress power spike will take control of them). They win most games before they get to use their 3rd mine on these sorts of maps because the opponent is forced out of their base quite early too, and the early fortress fights favour Germany pretty heavily on RE patch IMO.
why dont you write it in word and copy it into it here. Youll spend a few mins formatting it but at least you all have it saved then. Thats how i did it at least when i wrote my wall of text.
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05 Oct 2016, 22:42

Mitoe wrote:
Couprider wrote:does 200f 100w start really exist? in my memory german has "200f 100w 1random", and sometimes the map will give you an extra food crate (excluding deccan caro etc). so the poorest start should be 300f100w, not 200f100w.

You are correct actually, that was an oversight on my part. However, I would say the worst possible start in that case is 200f 100w 100c, not 300f 100w.
Is it possible for the random crate to be none?
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and don't have nerf hard japan = noob patch2.0
because all more noob player at this patch = noob logic.
or they maybe have boyfriend.(japanese boyfriend fuck your ass them)
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05 Oct 2016, 23:27

Kaiserklein wrote:Having only 200f hurts a lot, it means you have to actually gather food early on, instead of focusing on getting your market/TP up. Without good treasures, 200f 100g 100w is kinda a nightmare because of that, since you get hunt dogs really late, and you can't get a TP. 300f 100w at least lets you get a TP if you want (even though you'll be most likely to age late), or you can also age up 17 idleless, or build a market if you get a couple treasures (barely worse for market than 200f 100g 100w start).
tl;dr : having 300f is just much better because it's smoother.


If you're doing market 300f 100w is definately the worst by far, it's just less VS.

On 200f start I think if you had 1 SW and 1 vill it worked out perfectly so that you could quee vills so that you would neiter overgather or undergather food, which means that you got hunting dogs as fast as possible. But you have to get them ASAP, I would do

1) Shoot animal
2) Send a SW to animal, 2 to crates
3) Let vills come out to hunt and the 2 SW gather woo/coin and build the market
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06 Oct 2016, 09:35

ovi12 wrote:If you're doing market 300f 100w is definately the worst by far, it's just less VS.

On 200f start I think if you had 1 SW and 1 vill it worked out perfectly so that you could quee vills so that you would neiter overgather or undergather food, which means that you got hunting dogs as fast as possible. But you have to get them ASAP, I would do

1) Shoot animal
2) Send a SW to animal, 2 to crates
3) Let vills come out to hunt and the 2 SW gather woo/coin and build the market

300f 100w is a better start because it still gives you the option of aging up 17 idleless if you want to. Especially on some maps, where treasures suck, it's probably better to focus on aging up because without help from treasures you'd have too much idle time with market. With 200f 100g 100w, you would also have a ton of idle time if you market, but if you don't market you would still have idle time cause -100f. So 300f 100w = smoother age up without market.
300f 100w lets you also get an early TP if you want to. On some maps, basically, you won't miss xp even if you need to chop 100w before you build the TP (example : in-base GP TP, bottom kamchatka TP...), so it's still decent to take one ; plus with a significant wood or food treasure and/or livestock you can still age up 17 without too much idle time. You can't even dream of taking a TP on 200f 100w 100g however.
Then yeah, 200f 100w 100g is slightly better for market, but not that much : you have to chop 50w, mine 75g, gather 100f, instead of getting 150w 50g. In terms of VS, it's a 344 VS investment for the 100g start and 383 for the other one. And since you usually get hunt dogs much faster on 300f 100w (because you don't have to put vils on food early on) it kinda makes up for it.
So overall I'd rather have 300f 100w. Then again it depends a lot on the map.


Mitoe wrote:It was kind of for EP maps I guess, but honestly I don't think it changes that much on MOST RE maps. Water is definitely beatable for Ger, and you don't need a lot of food to be strong. Not to mention your raids are more effective on low-resource maps which helps compensate a bit.

I think Germany has a lot of the tools to compensate in low-resource environments I guess. All they really need to be strong is a TP and access to 1-2 hunts and gold mines (not necessarily in their base, but close enough that an early fortress power spike will take control of them). They win most games before they get to use their 3rd mine on these sorts of maps because the opponent is forced out of their base quite early too, and the early fortress fights favour Germany pretty heavily on RE patch IMO.


I think on some RE maps you auto lose on water in some match ups. Let's say you're playing NE, with all those chokes that can be guarded by warships, vs a civ like brits or ports. Honestly I don't think you should ever win. They just have better warships, or a free tc to guard the coast or whatever, and can wall up etc. The same goes on indochina, patagonia, hispaniola... And I'm not gonna list the other water maps like that, but there definitely are some others. The fact that walls have 3k hp doesn't help either.
You don't need a lot of food (even though you definitely need a decent amount, german units still do cost some food), but you need a lot of gold. Most maps have only 1 "safe" mine, and I put quotes because on some maps even your first and only mine isn't safe (example : on Andes or Painted desert, it's sometimes not even in your tc LOS). I think that hurts germany a lot, and sometimes hurts too much to win. Then sometimes just don't have gold mines on the map, like great lakes or NE if you get a bit mapscrewed. If the game lasts more than 15 min you're fucked. But anyway, my point is : germany does have some tools to defend rushes etc, and it certainly doesn't suffer from mapscrews as badly as for example ports or brits do, but imo they're still one of those civs that need a decent amount of safe resources to be viable, and also since they can't play colonial for too long they can't really grab a durable mapcontrol. You'll have to age up at some point in some match ups, and if you just get pushed while aging and don't have the minimum needed resources near your base you'll just get pushed off resources at that timing, and be imprisoned in your base and just most likely lose. And your shit bow pike army won't be able to hold that kind of push forever.
Though it's true that uhlan raids are cool yeah.

And don't get me wrong, I don't think germany is super bad on RE maps. Just that imo they don't beat aztecs or india on most maps, and they're far from 45% winrate vs otto or iro.
kickass_OP wrote:lbs vs cavs no is good

look wrote:Detail, garja was cattle for slaughter in my hands.

look wrote:I have something in particular against Kaisar (GERMANY NOOB mercenary LAMME FOREVER) And the other people (noobs) like suck kaiser ... just this ..

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